Peeling back the truth of Chemical Peels
An increasingly popular treatment in today’s society, but surprisingly to some, not a new treatment. Chemical peels have been around for Centuries, but are still a frightening concept. As soon as we hear the word “Chemical”, our mind takes us back to our Chemistry class where we experimented with bubbling liquids in test tubes and had to wear crazy goggles to protect our eyes. Why on earth would we want to put something so dangerous on our skin and feel it erode away?! Well my friends, I would like to share some valuable knowledge of Chemical Peels with you in order for you to understand them, not fear them and see how your skin can benefit from them.
Firstly, Chemical Peels are probably the oldest form of skin treatments ever documented. According to some sources, Cleopatra used sour milk to bathe in. Sour milk contains Lactic Acid. After taking such baths it was noted that her skin was softer, smoother and more even in appearance…….she was certainly on to something as Lactic Acid is an ingredient still used in mild chemical peels today.
The ancient Egyptians believed that cleanliness was vital to the health and beauty of the skin. The Egyptian’s also bathed in old wine to achieve the same effect as Lactic Acid. Wine contains tartaric acid, a fruit acid which is again still used in mild chemical peels today.
In the 1800’s people in the Caribbean started using sugar cane derived acids (Glycolic) to exfoliate their skin.
In the early 20th Century, American’s and European’s received Chemical Peels. These peels were mild and probably contained some of the same gentle acids that have been used for centuries to perform mild peels. In the mid 20th Century Dermatologists began administering medium depth peels using salicylic acids and Trichloroacetic acids.
Today mild and medium peels are popular among people wanting to improve the appearance of their skin. It is important that you know that as an Esthetician we are only licensed to perform a mild peel without being under the license of a Doctor. I will mostly be explaining the effect mild peels have on the skin as these are the type of peel I offer at the Spa.
What does a Chemical Peel Actually do?
In order to explain this, I would like to give you a very brief overview of the anatomy of the skin.
The skin is the biggest organ on the human body. It is also the most exposed. Every time we step outside, we expose our skin to extrinsic elements like pollutants, UV Rays, Changes in climate and other damaging toxins. These extrinsic elements can give us wrinkles, sun spots, hyperpigmentation and other aging signs. Chemical Peels can help to eliminate some of this damage.
The skin is made up of 3 layers. The epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous layer.
The epidermis is the top layer of the skin. It varies in thickness in different types of skin, on the eyelids it is only .05mm thick and is 1.5mm thick on the palms and soles of the feet. The epidermis itself is made up of 5 layers. The epidermis forms a protective barrier over the body’s surface, responsible for keeping water in the body and preventing pathogens from entering. The top layer of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum. This is basically made up of flattened out dead cells that have migrated up from the bottom of the epidermis and the dermis and are ready for shedding. As the cells move further towards the top of the skin, they get bigger and flatter and adhere together, they eventually become dehydrated and die. This process results in the cells fusing together into layers of tough durable material. This “horny layer” of the skin is sloughed off continually as new cells take its place. The shedding process slows down with age. Complete cell turnover takes 28-30 days in young adults and slows to 45-50 days in elderly adults.
The dermis is located beneath the epidermis and is the thickest of the 3 layers (1.5-4mm thick) making up approximately 90% of the thickness of the skin. This layer contains most of the skins’ specialized cells and structures. Among these are Collagen and Elastin. Collagen is a tough, insoluble protein that holds together the dermis and supports the epidermis, lending it its durability. Elastin, a similar protein is the substance that allows our skin to spring back into place when stretched and keeps the skin flexible.
Again as we age the reproduction of collagen and elastin cells slows therefore causing wrinkles and sagging aging skin.
How does a Chemical peel help?
The acids that are used in Chemical peels have a small molecular structure and are able to penetrate through the stratum corneum layer breaking down the bonds between the cells and sloughing away dead skin. The skin then goes into a state of shock and begins to repair itself by pushing up more cells to replace the ones that were removed, therefore speeding up the rejuvenation process. By speeding up the cell renewal process we will eliminate fine lines and wrinkles as Collagen will be regenerated quicker to plump up the skin. Sunspots and hyperpigmentation will be eradicated as new cells replace the pigmented ones. The skin will have a healthy glow as dead skin cells can be dulling, and so forth.
I hope you now understand the process of Chemical Peels and the benefits that can be gained from using them. I use a product line called Jan Marini Skin research. Their Chemical Peel system uses, Lactic Acid (Sour milk), Citric Acid (fruit) and salicylic acid (plant). As you can see these acids are not scary acids like “battery” acid, but acids that are naturally created and perfectly safe to apply to the skin.
What to expect during and after a Chemical Peel.
As the Chemical peel is layered onto the skin, you will experience a tingling to mild burning sensation. Some areas of the skin are more sensitive than others so this sensation may be stronger in areas such as around the nose. The sensation will subside and your skin will be left tight and a little red. You will be able to be in public, there is really no down time to a mild chemical peel. About 3 days after having the peel, your skin will start to exfoliate. Some people experience more “peeling” than others. Some merely have flaking skin, others have larger patches that peel off. After about a week your skin will be done exfoliating and will glow. You have now started the cell regeneration process and so will start to see your skin improve over time. Because mild Chemical peels don’t go as deep as the medium and deep chemical peels, I recommend a series of 3 peels in order to get the same results without the downtime as a deep chemical peel.
October is a perfect time to slough away those dead sun damaged cells. Speed up the metabolism of your skin, have a healthy glowing complexion for the holidays and turn back the clock this new year with younger looking skin.
Jan Marini Peel System Regularly $100…….October special $80
Series of 3 Regularly $270……..October $225
